• this is the wonderful couple behind sushi ippei. the tiny place looks straight from an ozu movie, closing late, when the patrons, japanese and foreign alike, have already had so much sake that what started as just an astonishing meal becomes a real party where everyone talks to everyone else, those japanese manners disappear, alcohol flows, and no one is a stranger anymore.
and the fish. the fish. they say kanazawa has the best sushi in japan. i don't know if this is true, but i'd have believed those yellowtail, mackerel and roe nigiris came from heaven should i not had seen them being prepared in front of me.